As Ian D’Agata rightly claims in his “Native Wine Grapes of Italy”, Trebbiano Toscano has been one of the most maligned varieties, associated in the past with mass-produced wines with no particular character or ageing potential. As a result, although Trebbiano was a well-known and widely cultivated variety at the time, Bettino Ricasoli omitted it from his famous recipe for Chianti. It only came to be admitted later, and that was because it was a consistently high-yielding variety. Ironically, its French equivalent, the Ugni Blanc, has had better fortune. Indeed, these grapes are used to produce Cognac, and first references to this variety, under the name of Uniers, date back to 1514. But to return to Trebbiano: its Italian character is so strong that it cannot only claim kinship with the Garganega, the key variety in Soave, but also relationships with at least eight other vines. Also, thanks to its incredible yield and adaptability, Trebbiano is the most commonly grown white grape variety in Italy, and seventh in the world – from Australia to Argentina. It plays a fundamental role in Vin Santo production, adding acidity and also enabling increased production.
